Krakow: charming, historic, poignant; our 2nd concert

Sunday, June 6
Krakow

Our guided tour of Krakow began in the Old Jewish sector of Kazimierz.
At one time most of Krakow' s Jewish population lived here, numbering close to 65,000 in the late 1930s.  Only about 1,000 Krakow Jews survived the Nazi occupation. Stories, records and photos about those thriving times before the war as well as reflections of the darkest days are housed within many Kazimierz museums, galleries and historic sites. A portion of our group chose to spend time at Auschwitz (see separate entry).

Kazimierz was the center of Jewish life in Kraków for over 500 years, before it was  destroyed during World War II. The area was introduced to the world in the 1990s, when  Steven Spielberg filmed "Schindler's List"  on-site in Kazimierz.  The area's Jewish history survives in the form of the district’s numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries.   Each summer a Jewish Culture Festival fills Kazimierz’s streets and cafes with music, while educating residents and visitors about the city’s pre-war Jewish history and celebrating modern Jewish culture

One of the selections for our evening concert in Krakow at St. Catherine's Church was Five Hebrew Love Songs by Eric Whitacre.  It was particularly poignant after spending time in the historic Kazimierz quarter. Violist Filip Kowalski commented that the Whitacre piece was his favorite with its harmonic structure and use of Hebrew.  "It gave respect to the old times."

Photos of people whose lives were saved are posted at the entrance to  Schindler's Factory.

 (left) early morning at a restaurant in the Kazimierz section of Krakow (the old Jewish quarter).

(right):  a lovely clear morning for exploring the old Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz) in Krakow.  This is a window of one of the Jewish restaurants in the area.

Wall art on a building in Kazimierz. photo by David Lindstrom

Outer wall of the oldest temple in Kaizmierz. photo by David Lindstrom

 A portion of the ghetto wall erected by the Nazis in the old Jewish quarter of Krakow

One of Kazimierz's old Jewish cemeteries

 Krakow's Market Square in early morning, before the crowds.

 Right, an old temple on the Krakow Square -- a place for quiet contemplation, or to hear a chamber music concert.

Happy Birthday to Emily Blakenship who celebrated  in Krakow and Wroclaw.  





(below) Student artists sketch and critique in early morning Krakow's old town. 

Even Krakow's horses charmed -- in full color.  photo by David Lindstrom

Peggy Lindstrom, attentive to the historic surroundings

A centerpiece of Krakow is the medieval Wawel Castle and cathedral situated majestically on a hillside overlooking the river and its promenade. The cathedral in the castle was prominent in the religious life of Poland's most famous and cherished son of the last century, Pope John Paul who served as Cardinal in Krakow prior to his papacy. Some of the  Nazi regime lived in the castle apartments throughout the war, keeping it and its artworks safe from ransacking and destruction. it's a beautiful spot from which the Tatra Mountains are visible in the distance.  (Tatra Mountain National Park is a "sister park" to our very own Rocky Mountain National Park).

Wawel Castle and the Cathedral within its walls

Statue of Pope John Paul II in front of the Cathedral where he presided as Archbishop and Cardinal 

Reality Check:  are you sure we're not in Italy? Nope, it's Wawel Castle.  This area became a living area to the Nazis who inhabited the castle and it buildings during the war.

(above) Kevin and Patty Kershaw of Voices West joined Jane Viste (LC) for a quiet lunch, overlooking the Krakow Square. From this lovely spot, above the crowds, they were able to see the trumpeter signal the hour from the high tower at St. Mary's across the Square.

So much to see and time is flying. We scatter to our separate interests and then gather in late afternoon to rehearse for our Krakow Concert in the stunning St. Catherine's Church.  The church was built in About 1360  and is now considered to be one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Poland.  It was founded by King Casimir the Great-- the only king in Polish history to both receive and keep the designation of Great" during his lifetime. Almost 700 years old and we are lucky enough to join its congregation for a few hours.

Elizabeth Morse, alto, (3rd from right, without scarf)  joined us from Pennsylvania for the tour.  She is the sister of LC member David Morse who recommended her highly to Mike based on her years of choral experience in college and in large urban choirs. She became a valued member, from the start!

A warm welcome as St. Catherine's director of music tells the Chorale the proud history of the church in which we'll be singing.

Alto Norma Lucas, on her first tour with the Chorale, happy to be here and ready to sing.

Singing under the choir loft during Mass in St. Catherine's

An appreciative audience filled St. Catherine's Church for our concert after the Mass. 

Walking along the river path as the sun set, wandering back to through Kazimierz in the evening and dining al fresco accompanied by klezmer music was a perfect ending to another memorable day in this ancient, historic, poignant and beautiful city.

John Spencer headed back to the Kazimierz for an al fresco treat of  borscht and live klezmer music, a tribute to history and to this lovely evening.

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