Gorlitz, Germany: a treasure trove

We left Wroclaw on a sunny morning (no rain!), driving through beautiful Polish countryside on its new highway system (no billboards!)  Our guide pointed out the checkpoint at the border that could not have been crossed freely during the communist years, reminding us all how fortunate we are not to have experienced that in the US.   After driving past the checkpoint, close to the Poland/Germany border, Mike asked Natalia (violinist) and Filip (viola) to stand while we all sang the Polish National Anthem in honor the the country of their births.  It was a poignant moment as we bade farewell to the country we grew fond of in such a short time.

We entered Germany after crossing a bridge on the Neisse River that connects the picturesque city of Zgorzelec, Poland to its "sister city" of Gorlitz, Germany.  The original bridge that was here was destroyed during WW II, was not re-built during the years of communist rule and was finally rebuilt in 2004.  It is now called the "Friendship Bridge" linking the two countries without border patrols or other blocks to its access.  

 Crossing the Neisse River from Poland into Gorlitz, Germany

Looking across the Friendship Bridge to Zgorzelec, Poland

Gorlitz was once part of Poland, but boundaries were re-drawn after WW II,  locating it into East Germany.  Gorlitz is a small medieval city that was spared destruction in WWII.  However, it was close to being destroyed in the 1980s by the East German government due to its years of neglect.  But, after the fall of communism in 1989, private and government funding helped the city restore its ancient beauty and multiple historic treasures. The city's tranquil, orderly and interesting architecture and quiet twisting cobblestone streets are in contrast to what it must have been like here after WW II when hoards of Germans who lived in Poland were forced to desert their Polish homes and cross the Neisse into Gorlitz and beyond to find new places to live and to call home.  They were called "after war refugees."  

It's again a colorful city, and its architecture is a mix of styles through the ages. The church where we held an informal concert (the Dreifaltigkeits Church or Trinity Church) was founded in 1245 by Franciscan Monks, but was renovated in the late 1300s to its Gothic look today.  A group of school children came into the church to hear us perform as well as visitors to the city who were out strolling the streets at lunchtime.  They especially enjoyed the spiritual "Aint Got Time to Die" when Mike sang his soaring solos that could have raised the roof!

Gorltiz is a city of many towers: Rapunzel would be quite at home here.

 Tower at Trinity Church, where we sang

Several movies have been filmed In Gorlitz in recent years including The Reader, The Book Thief,  Inglorious Basterds, and, most recently, The Grand Budapest Hotel (street scenes, the interiors of the hotel, and the thermal baths in one of the earliest scenes of the movie).  Click on the link below to see a short video narrated by director Wes Anderson and the cast about shooting the movie in Gorlitz.  Note, the place where Bill Murray gets his bratwurst and hot mustard is the same where many of us ate lunch and where the same woman waited on us!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7xD92rBPVA

Compared to Johnsonville?  Pretty darn good. 

Gorlitz is a city where one can just wander and find beautiful intriguing historic sites around each corner and in the passageways, alleys and courtyards.  Definitely a city to return to, if lucky, to learn more the stories of its complex ancient history and the important role it played in both WWII and the Cold War. See the other Gorlitz entry for photos of Soprano Marian Railsback who, with the genealogy  assistance of Alto Ceil Damschroder, found a church important in her family's history in Gorlitz.  

Along the old city walls overlooking houses above the Neisse River.

A peaceful garden for public strolling and respite beneath St. Peter Church which dominates the city view from the river.  The garden's southern wall is part of the old city wall.

(right) More towers appear on the landscape

Saint Peter Church towers visible above the garden wall

Landmark tower over Gorlitz City hall which houses a museum.

 Oldest tower in Gorlitz.

One of many little alleys twisting throughout Gorlitz.

In the main Market Square, a cyclist stops to photograph a central fountain.

Below:  Familiar faces seen along Gorlitz streets at lunchtime!

Important spots we missed:

Stalag VIII-A: Quartet to the End of Time

Just outside (south) of Gorlitz is the site of Stalag VIII-A, a German prisoner-of-war camp where French composer Olivier Messiaen composed and performed his “Quartet for the End of Time.” He wrote it while he was imprisoned there and performed it for the other prisoners and the German guards on January 15, 1941 deep in the winter cold.  The members of the quartet were also accomplished musicians playing cello, violin, clarinet and piano .  The quartet's eight movements were played to a rapt audience, including patients from the infirmary, in close to freezing conditions.   The Germans allowed Messiaen not only to compose and perform the piece, but they gave him a room for working and put a guard at the door so as not to disturb him.  The quartet is still considered one of the most enduring pieces of art to emerge from the darkness of the War.

Article on Stalag VIII-A, the Quartet and Olivier Messiaen:

Gorlitz and the Quartet to the End of Time

 The Oberlausitzische Library of Science

After stopping to see an interesting courtyard, Alto Jane Viste was encouraged by two other tourists not to miss the Library.  With only 15 minutes before the bus left, Jane only had time for a swift glimpse at what is considered one of the top 10 most beautiful libraries in the world -- right there on the main street of Gortlitz!  And the quick glimpse proved that the title is not exaggerating.  Maybe I'll be able to tour it it next time.... along with the thermal baths in "The Grand Budapest Hotel!"

See a glimpse of the Library:
Library of Science, Gorlitz

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