Krakow: charming, historic, poignant; our 2nd concert

Sunday, June 6
Krakow

Our guided tour of Krakow began in the Old Jewish sector of Kazimierz.
At one time most of Krakow' s Jewish population lived here, numbering close to 65,000 in the late 1930s.  Only about 1,000 Krakow Jews survived the Nazi occupation. Stories, records and photos about those thriving times before the war as well as reflections of the darkest days are housed within many Kazimierz museums, galleries and historic sites. A portion of our group chose to spend time at Auschwitz (see separate entry).

Kazimierz was the center of Jewish life in Kraków for over 500 years, before it was  destroyed during World War II. The area was introduced to the world in the 1990s, when  Steven Spielberg filmed "Schindler's List"  on-site in Kazimierz.  The area's Jewish history survives in the form of the district’s numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries.   Each summer a Jewish Culture Festival fills Kazimierz’s streets and cafes with music, while educating residents and visitors about the city’s pre-war Jewish history and celebrating modern Jewish culture

One of the selections for our evening concert in Krakow at St. Catherine's Church was Five Hebrew Love Songs by Eric Whitacre.  It was particularly poignant after spending time in the historic Kazimierz quarter. Violist Filip Kowalski commented that the Whitacre piece was his favorite with its harmonic structure and use of Hebrew.  "It gave respect to the old times."

Photos of people whose lives were saved are posted at the entrance to  Schindler's Factory.

 (left) early morning at a restaurant in the Kazimierz section of Krakow (the old Jewish quarter).

(right):  a lovely clear morning for exploring the old Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz) in Krakow.  This is a window of one of the Jewish restaurants in the area.

Wall art on a building in Kazimierz. photo by David Lindstrom

Outer wall of the oldest temple in Kaizmierz. photo by David Lindstrom

 A portion of the ghetto wall erected by the Nazis in the old Jewish quarter of Krakow

One of Kazimierz's old Jewish cemeteries

 Krakow's Market Square in early morning, before the crowds.

 Right, an old temple on the Krakow Square -- a place for quiet contemplation, or to hear a chamber music concert.

Happy Birthday to Emily Blakenship who celebrated  in Krakow and Wroclaw.  





(below) Student artists sketch and critique in early morning Krakow's old town. 

Even Krakow's horses charmed -- in full color.  photo by David Lindstrom

Peggy Lindstrom, attentive to the historic surroundings

A centerpiece of Krakow is the medieval Wawel Castle and cathedral situated majestically on a hillside overlooking the river and its promenade. The cathedral in the castle was prominent in the religious life of Poland's most famous and cherished son of the last century, Pope John Paul who served as Cardinal in Krakow prior to his papacy. Some of the  Nazi regime lived in the castle apartments throughout the war, keeping it and its artworks safe from ransacking and destruction. it's a beautiful spot from which the Tatra Mountains are visible in the distance.  (Tatra Mountain National Park is a "sister park" to our very own Rocky Mountain National Park).

Wawel Castle and the Cathedral within its walls

Statue of Pope John Paul II in front of the Cathedral where he presided as Archbishop and Cardinal 

Reality Check:  are you sure we're not in Italy? Nope, it's Wawel Castle.  This area became a living area to the Nazis who inhabited the castle and it buildings during the war.

(above) Kevin and Patty Kershaw of Voices West joined Jane Viste (LC) for a quiet lunch, overlooking the Krakow Square. From this lovely spot, above the crowds, they were able to see the trumpeter signal the hour from the high tower at St. Mary's across the Square.

So much to see and time is flying. We scatter to our separate interests and then gather in late afternoon to rehearse for our Krakow Concert in the stunning St. Catherine's Church.  The church was built in About 1360  and is now considered to be one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Poland.  It was founded by King Casimir the Great-- the only king in Polish history to both receive and keep the designation of Great" during his lifetime. Almost 700 years old and we are lucky enough to join its congregation for a few hours.

Elizabeth Morse, alto, (3rd from right, without scarf)  joined us from Pennsylvania for the tour.  She is the sister of LC member David Morse who recommended her highly to Mike based on her years of choral experience in college and in large urban choirs. She became a valued member, from the start!

A warm welcome as St. Catherine's director of music tells the Chorale the proud history of the church in which we'll be singing.

Alto Norma Lucas, on her first tour with the Chorale, happy to be here and ready to sing.

Singing under the choir loft during Mass in St. Catherine's

An appreciative audience filled St. Catherine's Church for our concert after the Mass. 

Walking along the river path as the sun set, wandering back to through Kazimierz in the evening and dining al fresco accompanied by klezmer music was a perfect ending to another memorable day in this ancient, historic, poignant and beautiful city.

John Spencer headed back to the Kazimierz for an al fresco treat of  borscht and live klezmer music, a tribute to history and to this lovely evening.

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Welcome to Krakow

Krakow, Poland
Saturday, June 6

Another gorgeous morning as we boarded the bus for our trip to Krakow, Poland. Spirits were high after our first concert was well-received the night before (or was it because most got enough sleep?) The four-hour trip to Krakow was through a very green and rural landscape that reminded some in the group of Midwest states (Wisconsin, Iowa). The land is CULTIVATED in narrow rectangular sections, rather than large square plots, something clearly apparent when flying over the area as we landed last week.  This pattern goes back to war years and the years under communism when Polish were either not allowed to own land or were not able to afford large acreage.  Unlike a drive through U.S. rural landscapes, we saw no corn.  Our guide pointed out large nests that were being built by very busy male storks getting ready for the arrival of their female. Women on board liked that division of labor!

Of note: McDonald's is a frequent rest stop along the highway, so bathrooms, American fast food and coffee are there when you need them.

Arrived in Krakow and headed straight to the large, picturesque Old Town City Square which was busy with Saturday afternoon crowds.  At these times we enjoy not only getting to know a new city, but also getting to become better acquainted with our chorale partners and supporters as we share a meal and some tall Polish beers. Most of the travelers then headed off to see the artistic treasures carved in the local salt mines.

 We look forward to a guided City tour on Sunday (tomorrow) and to presenting another concert in the evening in this stunning and historic city.

Auschwitz-Birkenau German Concentration Camps

Reading and hearing about Auschwitz brings up some angst: how could this horrible thing have happened, how sad, ancient history, etc, etc. Actually being there, walking in the same places the prisoners walked, coming into one of the rooms where they were slowly suffocated, seeing the mounds of hair taken from some of the corpses, evoked powerful emotions of sadness, loss, and hopelessness at the unbelievable inhumanity, i.e. treating actual people as mere objects. And, genocide has not stopped.

"Arbeit macht frei" was a lie.

The wall against which prisoners were shot immediately after failing a tribunal.

Outside one of the buildings where prisoners who were too weak or sick to work, or were a Jewish female or child were gassed, then cremated.

Warsaw sites; first concert

Friday, June 5, 2015

First things first.  With most of us caught up with sleep, we began the day with a rehearsal at the hotel.  What a great moment that was, when, well rested, we rehearsed with the excellent quartet that would be traveling with us. (It took only a few bars before we knew they would help us look really good!).  We were then free to spend the afternoon exploring Warsaw. Many spent the time in the Old Town section checking out the historic sites that are largely restored after Warsaw' s destruction in World War II. The end of communism several decades ago has also brought the city a vitality that was missing under decades of communist government.

(left) Warsaw's Palace of Culture and Science, built in 1955, was a "gift to the Polish Nation from the Soviet people."  It was originally called the "Joseph Stalin Palace of Culture and Science," but that name was changed with the removal of Stalin from Soviet leadership. The building is currently a widely recognized symbol of Warsaw, not always positively, since  many still consider it to be a symbol of Soviet domination. 

The area around the building contains theaters, cinema, an art museum, and auditorium and public squares where the famous Warsaw Christmas market takes place.

It is an example of Stalinist architecture mixed with influences from American Art Deco. 

(right) One of the Theaters of Dramatic arts at the Palace of Culture.  The theater buildings were built at the same time as the Palace (1950s), though they look much older, built in a classical style.

While admiring the arts district, it's sobering to  look down at the pavement and see the designation along the pavement marking the location of the Jewish Ghetto Wall,  built during Nazi occupation.













 Warsaw' s Old Town Square is  bustling with the beginning of summer tourism. It's a colorful place, full of flowers, lovely colorful brick and stone buildings, towers and archways. Churches ring out the hours to the visitors filling the cafe tables al fresco or inside many quaint restaurants, a stark contrast to its almost-total destruction in World War II (photo below).  It was sunny and almost 80 so we found it hard to believe that there was troubling weather in Fort Collins. So FAR from home!

 We walk among colorful buildings and thriving businesses. But those who live in Warsaw know it was not always this way as seen in the photos displayed on the old city ramparts.  Above, a powerful photo reminds visitors of the destruction of this same area in 1945 at the end of WW II.

The re-built walls and ramparts at the entrance to Market Square.  A powerful photo display shows the destroyed area in WW II, placing the current vibrancy of the city in the context of what it has risen from. It makes one feel humbled to be in this place and to sing in honor of the strength and resiliency of the Polish people. The title of Poland's National Anthem reflects that resiliency: Poland has not yet Perished.

Streets lined with restaurants featuring Polish fare -- but rarely a green salad!

Antiques in Warsaw

Warsaw's Royal Castle -- more museum than home

Market Square in Old Town Warsaw

Altos, tenors and basses found some too!

 

(right) A city of color in its  historic architecture -- and nature's help with a vivid blue sky. 

Someone's home -- oh, to see beyond those gates!

                                             

                                                         First Concert, Friday, June 5

The Field Cathedral of the Polish Army,  also known as The Church of Our Lady Queen of the Polish Crown (photo from Wikipedia)

Our first concert, Friday evening,  was at the Field Cathedral of the Polish Army.  After participating in the evening Mass, we presented a concert to the congregation of this beautiful, historic church.  The cathedral was built in the mid 18th Century, but has been through multiple changes in its use and appearance over the Centuries.   It is currently the representative cathedral of the entire Polish Army.  All major military religious feasts are celebrated there.

(left) Anna Marie, our tour guide, goes over logistics with the Celebrant of the Mass in the gardens of the Field Cathedral.

(right) The interior of the Cathedral shimmered with gold, especially in the late-day sun when we had our concert.  Wall on the right of the altar shows the Coat of Arms of Poland,  an eagle, armed, crowned and beaked.

Heavenly host -- angels on the golden ceiling of the Cathedral -- photo by David Lindstrom

The lovely, stately cathedral is across from a striking monument to those men, women and children who rose up against German occupation in 1944 (Warsaw Uprising).  Though the uprising was ultimately unsuccessful against the Nazis (who were occupying Warsaw),  Poland remains proud of the brave efforts taken by the Polish resistance against the Germans.

(left) A monument to freedom from oppression, enjoyed by a young child in Warsaw who one day will hear the stories and understand.

Heroes of the Warsaw Uprising Monument

The acoustics in the cathedral were great,  thrilling us to hear our final chords sustained in the space.  A standing ovation was a bonus, especially when it was led by the priest celebrant who brought out video and an iPad to record our performance.  A smiling soldier in uniform stood by to photograph throughout the concert.  Though he spoke in Polish (which we don't!) we understood the priest's words and gestures as he spoke to the congregation about music lifting us up -- which they really seemed to feel after our Gospel songs!

 Mike (and Paddy Shannon) seemed pleased with our first performance.  Time to celebrate together in Old Town...

 Cathy Horvath, Voices West, relaxes with friends after the concert in Old Town, Warsaw.

Jean Johnson and her mother Gaye Fletcher

A walk and a meal together in an Old Town cafe capped a rather perfect day. The wiener schnitzel, red cabbage, Polish beers and wine helped!

 The Cathedral where we performed, illuminated  in later evening

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 Sculpture on the university grounds, under a summer evening sky.

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Arrival in Warsaw

Long Days Journey . . . into Warsaw, Poland 

Twenty-four hours from the time we woke up in Fort Collins --  and after flying from Denver to Minneapolis to Amsterdam -- we finally landed at the Frederick Chopin Airport in Warsaw.  Isn't that a fitting airport name to welcome music lovers?

It was a perfect day -- 70 degrees and sunny.  Instead of heading to our hotel for a nap, we were revived by a brief tour of the city including a walk through Łazienki Park, the largest and considered by some to be the most beautiful park in Warsaw.   The park, constructed in 1784, is the site of the home of the Polish president (the Belvidere) and contains numerous other historic buildings, gardens, pools, forest and an outdoor amphitheater, all of which are open to the public.  A monument to Chopin has a prominent and peaceful location within the park, inviting visitors to linger, picnic or just soak in the natural beauty of the park.

The large bronze tribute to Chopin, in which he sits under a windblown weeping willow merged with shapes of eagle heads, overlooks a reflecting pool and a rose garden where many of Warsaw's residents and visitors gather on summer Sunday afternoons for piano concerts in honor of Poland's great musician and Warsaw's native son.

Fryderyk Chopin Monument
Łazienki Park, Warsaw 
photo by David Lindstrom

This sculpture is the second, being re-cast after the first was destroyed in WW II, as much of this city was. As we soon saw throughout Poland, the city of Warsaw is an example of steadfast resilience, much of the city (and country) having been re-built after destruction from both war and loss of its treasured and historic heritage under communist rule. Despite the blows, Chopin lives on!

We arrived on the Feast of Corpus Christi  (Boze Cialo),  an important Catholic feast celebrated as a public holiday in Poland. It is the day when the Catholic Church commemorates the practice of Holy Eucharist, or Communion. Corpus Christi is an official public holiday in Poland.  Over 92% of Poland's population is Catholic, so schools, banks, government offices and most private businesses are closed to commemorate the day.  Numerous families were strolling in the park, enjoying the day off.  Processions in the streets are part of the holiday and we had just missed the one in Warsaw when we arrived. (However, we would be participants in one of the Corpus Christi celebrations later in the week in Wroclaw).

After the park tour, we made a stop at Warsaw's Old Town, the center of the city with ancient and interesting history.  Just time for a quick walk, a coffee and snack and then off to our hotel looking forward to coming back to this area tomorrow before our first concert.

Overlook of the Square in Old Town, Warsaw from the tower of St. Mary's Church.

Jane Viste tastes her first of many Polish pastries in Old Town, Warsaw.   She loved it which is why this was the first of many.

Tonight we  had our first rehearsal with the musicians (piano and string quartet) who will travel with and accompany us on several of our pieces. We felt very pleased by what we all sounded like together, but then we were sleep deprived and were possibly hallucinating.  We'll see in the morning after some sleep and another rehearsal...

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Introduction

On June 3, 2015 at about 5:00 in the morning we will be leaving the Fort Collins and Littleton areas for a singing tour of Poland and Germany, with stops in Warsawa, Kraków, Wrocław, Görlitz, Leipzig, and Dresden. Attending will be about 35 singers from the Larimer Chorale and Voices West, plus groupies and staff.